TechyMagThings

Fish are popular animals to keep as pets, and for good reason. They’re relatively low maintenance, relaxing to watch, and have a high aesthetic appeal. But for all their upsides, they aren’t quite as companionable as a dog or a cat. Although some fish can do limited walking or flying, these aren’t generally kept as pets and would still need considerable help navigating the terrestrial world. To that end, [Everything is Hacked] built a fish tank that allows his fish to move around on their own. We presume he’s heard the old joke about two fish in a tank. One says, “Do you know how to drive this thing?”

The first prototype of this “fish tank” is actually built on a tracked vehicle with differential steering, on which the fish tank would sit. But after building a basic, driveable machine, the realities of fish ownership set in. The fish with the smallest tank needs is a betta fish, but even that sort of fish needs much more space than would easily fit on a robotics platform. So [Everything is Hacked] set up a complete ecosystem for his new pet, making the passenger vehicle a secondary tank.

The new fish’s name is [Carrot], named after the carrots that [Everything is Hacked] used to test the computer vision system that would track the fish’s movements and use them to control the mobile fish tank. There was some configuration needed to ensure that when this feisty fish swam in circles, the tank didn’t spin around uncontrollably, but eventually he was able to get it working in an “arena” where [Carrot] could drive towards some favorite items he might like to interact with. Mostly, though, he drove his tank to investigate the other fish in the area.

The ultimate goal was for [Everything is Hacked] to take his fish on a walk, though, so he set about training [Carrot] to respond to visual cues and swim towards them. In theory, this would have allowed him to be followed by his fish tank, but a test at a local grocery did not go as smoothly as hoped. Still, it’s an interesting project that pushes the boundaries of pet ownership much like other fish-driving projects we’ve seen.

There was a time before portable TVs and personal media players when the idea of putting coin-operated TVs everywhere, from restaurants to airports and laundromats, would have seemed like a solid business model. Thus was born the Vend-o-Vision by Mini-TV USA, which presented itself as a cash earner for businesses and a way to make their customers even happier. One of these new-in-box units recently made its way over to [Mark] of the SpaceTime Junction YouTube channel.

This unit is very simple, with what appears to be an off-the-shelf Panasonic black-and-white TV with UHF and VHF reception capability, inside a metal box that contains the timer mechanism, which is linked to the coin mechanism. Depending on a physical slider with three positions, you get anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes per quarter, with the customer having to tune into the station themselves using the TV’s controls. A counter mechanism is provided as an option.

As would be expected from a new-in-box unit, after chiseling off the 30-odd-year-old Styrofoam packaging, it fires right up and works fine. Of course, it’s a small black-and-white TV, so it’s not incredibly useful, and clearly wasn’t even back in 1989 when the Vend-o-Vision first appeared.

After some finagling with adapters, [Mark] gets everyone’s favorite movie playing on the tiny screen, giving us the first glimpse of what it would have been like to gaze at this miracle of technology back around the early 1990s in a noisy laundromat or restaurant. One can hardly imagine why it didn’t catch on.

We can see a patent for this appear in a 1990 scan of the USPTO’s gazette, where it’s listed as being first in commercial operation on the 29th of November 1989. The system was short-lived, however, with in 1995 the FTC settling with the company for deceptive practices, as the company had overinflated the projected earnings per TV when it started flaunting it at tradeshows in 1990. A few years prior, Mini TV USA appears to have already ceased operations, making these remaining Vend-o-Vision quite rare indeed. These types of coin-operated TVs were usually in public places or hotels. But we’ve seen coin-operated TVs that briefly appeared in homes, too.

At first glance, it may look like [Rybitski]’s 7-segment RGB LED clock is something that’s been done before, but look past the beautiful mounting. It’s not just stylishly framed; the back end is just as attentively executed. It’s got a built-in web UI, MQTT automation, so Home Assistant integration is a snap, and allows remote OTA updates, so software changes don’t require taking the thing down and plugging in a cable.

Pixel Clock is code for the Wemos D1 Mini microcontroller board and WS2812/WS2812B RGB LED strips, but it’s made to be flexible enough to support different implementations. For example, altering which LEDs in the strip belong to which segments on which digits can be configured entirely from the web interface. Naturally, one could build an LED strip clock using the same layout [Rybitski] did and require no changes at all — but it’s very nice to see that different wiring layouts are supported without needing to edit any code. There’s even automatic brightness adjustment if one adds an LDR (light-dependent resistor), which is a nice touch.

[Rybitski]’s enclosure is CNC-routed MDF, framed and given a marble finish. The number segments are capped with laser-cut frosted white acrylic, which serve as both diffuser for the LEDs and an attractive fit with the marble finish at the front. MDF is dense and opaque enough that no additional baffles or louvers are needed between segments.

With this code and an RGB LED strip, you can implement your own 7-segment clock any way you like, focusing on an artful presentation instead of re-inventing the wheel in software. Of course, there’s nothing that says one must use 7-segment numerals; some say your LED clock need not display numbers at all.

Picture this: you have an irregular opening you need to fabricate a piece to fill. Maybe it’s the stonework of a fireplace; maybe it’s the curved bulkhead of a ship. How do you get that shape? The most “Hackaday” answer would be to 3D scan the area, create a CAD model based on the point cloud, and route the shape with CNC. Of course, none of those were options for the entirety of human history. So how do you do it if you don’t have such high-tech toys? With a stick, as [Essential Craftsman] takes great pains to show us in the video below.

It’s not just any stick, of course. Call it a “tick stick”, a “speil stick”, or a “joggle stick” — whatever you call it, it’s just an irregularly shaped piece of wood. The irregular shape is key to the whole process. How you use it is simple: get some kind of storyboard — cardboard, MDF, whatever — that fits inside your irregular void. Thanks to the magic of the stick, it need not fit flush to the edges of the hole. You put the tick stick on the storyboard, press the pointy end against a reference point on the side of the hole, and trace the stick. The irregular shape means you’re going to be able to get that reference point back exactly later. Number the outline you just made, and rinse and repeat until you’ve got a single-plane “point cloud” made of tick stick outlines.

Your storyboard is probably going to look mighty confusing, but that’s what the numbers are for. Bring your storyboard and your tick stick onto the workbench and whatever you want to cut out– plywood, cardboard, 1/4″ steel armor plate, you name it–and simply repeat the process. Put the tick stick inside outline #1 and mark where the pointy end lands on the material. Then do it again for the other outlines, reproducing the points you measured on the original piece. After that, it’s just a game of ‘connect the dots’ and cutting with whatever methodology works for your substrate. A sharp knife will work for cardboard, but you’ll probably want something more substantial for steel plate.

It’s not often you’re going to need the tick stick– the [Craftsman] reports only needing it a few times over the course of a decades-long career, but when you need it, there’s not much else that will do the job. Well, unless you have a 3D scanner handy, that is.

Everyone is probably familiar with the concept of battery-powered devices, but generally, this involves a laptop with a beefy battery pack and hardware optimized for low power draw. You could also do the complete opposite and try to run a desktop PC off alkaline AA cells, as [ScuffedBits] recently did out of morbid curiosity. Exactly how many alkaline cells does it take to run a desktop PC for any reasonable amount of time?

One nice thing about using batteries with a desktop PC is that you can ditch the entire AC-DC power conversion step and instead use a DC-DC adapter like the well-known PicoATX and its many clones. These just take in 12 VDC and tend to have a fairly wide input voltage range, which is useful when your batteries begin to run out of juice. In this case, just above 10 VDC seemed to be the cut-off point for the used DC-DC adapter.

In the end, [ScuffedBits] used what looks like 56 alkaline AA cells connected in both parallel and series, along with two series-connected 6,800 µF, 40V electrolytic capacitors to buffer the spikes in power demand, after early experiments showed that the cells just cannot provide power that quickly. Although admittedly, the initial thin wiring didn’t help either. With alkaline rather than carbon AA cells, improved wiring, and some buffer capacitors, it turns out that you can indeed run a desktop PC off AA cells, if only just about long enough for a small game of Minesweeper.

Amusingly, the small LCD monitor used in the experiment drew so little power that it happily ran on eight NiMH cells for much longer, highlighting just how important power conservation is for battery-powered devices. We wonder if you could marry this project to a battery project we saw and end up with something practically portable?

Philco was a common household brand for many years. The company started in 1892, making street lights. Then they pivoted to batteries. This was big business when early radios were all battery-operated. But in the 1920s, line-powered radios threatened to shrink their customer base, so they pivoted again. This time, they started making radios. So what happened? [The Last Shift] has the story, and you can see the video below.

Philco used advanced manufacturing techniques to make radios more affordable. By 1930, they were the number one radio maker in the world. After World War II, they moved into everything electric: mostly appliances, but also the new king of the electronics market, the television.

Philco faced much competition and wanted to stand out. The answer was the Predicta, a TV like no other at the time. It used an advanced semi-flat picture tube with a plastic coating. The 17-inch or 21-inch picture tube was detached from the TV itself. In one model, the tube sat on top of the TV with a swivel mount. In a pricier variant, the tube connected to the TV with a 25-foot cable. Who needs a remote control? Put the TV by your recliner and change channels while watching the screen across the room.

The physical design was unique and in demand. The problem was that the semi-flat tube was unreliable. It was also black-and-white in a time when color TV burst on the scene. They made the set from 1959 to 1960 and discontinued it due to lower demand and high warranty service costs. By 1962, Philco was bankrupt.

Ford (the motor company) bought the company and used it as a vehicle for defense work (including NASA) and car radios. By 1974, the company was sold again to GTE. The giant factory in Philadelphia was razed.

We know of at least one famous collector of Predictas. If you wanted real remote control, you could get a more conventional Philco Directa at about the same time. It used a mechanical ultrasonic remote similar to the Zenith Space Command system.

Having an AI assistant is all the rage these days, but AI assistants usually don’t know about your automation setups and may have difficulty dealing with tasks asynchronously. Enter zclaw. It gives you the option to have a personal assistant on an ESP32 backed by Anthropic, OpenAI, or OpenRouter. The whole thing fits in 888KB, and while it doesn’t host the LLM, it does add key capabilities to monitor and control devices connected to the ESP32.

You communicate with the assistant via telegram. You can say things like “Remember the garage sensor is on GPIO 4.” Then later you might say: “In 20 minutes, check the garage sensor and if it is high, set GPIO 5 low.” It has an RTOS for scheduling tasks and is aware of the timezone and common periods. Memory persists across reboots, and you can pick different personas.

Some of the use cases mentioned in the manual show how having something that can precisely schedule, control, or monitor devices might pay off. Ideas like bringing up a lab setup, scheduling plant watering, and more would be difficult to do with just a stock chatbot.

The AI can also introspect. For example, you could create a few tasks on a schedule and then ask the device to “show me my schedules.”  You can also create up to 8 tools with a name, description, and action. This lets you describe something like “power_down_bench” and then tell zclaw to execute it on demand or even on a schedule. Overall, an interesting and well-documented setup.

We’ve seen many projects like this, and each has its own charm. And its own personality.