TechyMagThings

Folding a sheet of metal in a straight line is one thing, but how does one fold multiple curved lines into a sheet of aluminum without fancy machines? [John] demonstrates how to do exactly that with little more than hand tools and a fair bit of patience. The secret is drilling a lot of small holes along each fold line.

First, a bit of background. [John] wanted to fabricate a curved piece of aluminum as cover that would match the sleek aerodynamic lines of a Belly Tank Lakester. The trick is that there isn’t a single straight line to be found, and the fold lines are all curves. How can one do such folding with only hand tools?

[John] found that fabrication was possible by drilling small holes all along each fold line, then carefully bending as needed. The line of holes weakens the metal, acting like a score line, and allow the required curves to be made cleanly. There’s some finishing work and straightening involved, but the hard part of making the actual folds is taken care of.

One method that didn’t work was cutting a shallow groove in the metal to create something like a pre-scored fold line. [John] tried this and found that while the metal does indeed fold along the weakened line, the aluminum tends to crack in the process. When making a line of holes instead, the metal between each hole bends nicely.

This technique does mean the finished part ends up with small perforations along each fold, but the part is mounted on the bottom of the car and [John] says that he’d have to look quite closely to notice. A little polishing goes a long way, too.

We have covered many ways to bend sheet metal and while machinery exists to do it exceedingly well, great results can be had with little more than simple tools and some patience.

Watch [John] go through the process in the video embedded below, or skip to 7:55 if you just want to see the end result.

When you see a listing for an Ethernet switch whose specification list is in effect ‘yes’, with a four-digit price tag when new, and with the seller asking for less than 10% of said $3,000 asking price in an ‘untested’ condition, the only rational thing to do is of course to mash that ‘buy’ button. This is what [This Does Not Compute] did, and created a video about to show what a great investment decision this was.

Naturally this Juniper EX4100-F-12P switch came without power supply brick for its 48VDC input. Figuring out its pin-out and probing said input showed that the voltage rails had been shorted, giving a first clue as to why this switch had been on sale for so very cheap. Bravely hoping that it would be a straightforward fix, the unit was disassembled.

With a 280 Watt power brick, it’s little wonder that the top of the unit is a one massive aluminium heatsink, including a large heatpipe. Also visible on the lid near the power input was a very-bad-news black skid mark.

From that first discovery the news just got worse and worse, with clear signs of water ingression, rust and corrosion, along with the aftermath of a powered circuit meeting such bad corrosion. After some clean-up it’s clear that some components had violently exploded, ripping apart layers of the PCB and likely parts of traces in those inner sections too.

With no schematics available and no other good repair options via Juniper or anywhere else, it seems that unfortunately this gamble turned out to be merely a pile of e-waste and a few bucks worth of scrap metal. Caveat emptor, once more.

For a little while vacuum tubes and semiconductors were fighting a heated battle for dominance, with bipolar junction transistors and 1959’s RCA Nuvistor both allowing you to build a compact circuit with relatively low power usage and no high voltages. Although we now know that semiconductor technology won out overwhelmingly, that doesn’t mean that you cannot build a brand new Nuvistor board in 2026, as [Eric Schlaepfer] AKA [TubeTimeUS] recently did.

Nuvistors saw their most use in small-signal radio frequency applications, like VHF and UHF, with excellent low-noise characteristics that saw them used until the early 1970s in television sets, radios and oscilloscopes, as well as in space probes like the 1960s US Ranger Moon missions, so by that metric they had a good run.

Nothing so exciting is built in this video, sadly, but alongside a breakdown on how nuvistors work, we do see a discrete 555-style timer built using a gaggle of tetrode nuvistors, giving a pretty good idea of what using them in a project is like. Being a vacuum tube at its core, nuvistors still have the heater element, which is what gives vacuum tubes their reputation for being slow to start working and large current draw.

Despite their drawbacks, nuvistors still have a range of benefits compared to modern-day transistors, including being practically immune to electrostatic discharge (ESD) and electromagnetic interference (EMI) all the way up an EMP that will destroy most semiconductor electronics.

That said, the somewhat limited 8-nuvistor implementation of the 555 had to get a few extra pins for the heater supply, which burns up about 7.5 Watt just to allow the circuit to function. Terming it the ‘hollow-state 555 timer’, it works effectively just like any semiconductor 555, just with that extra power cost and of course no significant prospect of making it smaller, barring a semiconductor evolution as with the pixels-sized CRTs in the SED and FED type displays.

We covered the nuvistor before, including a great reference on this device, and its history that was much longer than people often assume today, as well as the vacuum tubes we use every day in for example our microwaves.

Nintendo has made many game consoles in its long history — one that famously overlaps that of the Ottoman Empire — but only one of them was ever Super. It’s that console, the Super Nintendo Entertainment System, that [Inkbox] has decided to delve deeply into as he crafts a game in assembly using all the hardware tricks he can.

Hardware tricks he’ll need, given he’s limited to the two 64 kB RAM banks and 3.58 MHz Ricoh 6502-based CPU. Even the 4 MB limit he sets for a historically-accurate homemade cartridge seems positively claustrophobic by modern standards. The game he’s after making is a top-down adventure game a la Zelda, and [Inkbox] gets right into the weeds explaining how the SNES works as he shows his work in this nearly hour long video. If you’re looking for a deep dive into the architecture, along with how it is meant to be used, you could certainly find worse sources. Everything from the different graphics modes to what registers handle sound are covered in this and the previous video in the series.

We can’t help but call out his dedication to open source — the SNES Sound Engine he has put up on GitHub looks like it could be a real asset to anyone else doing this kind of homebrew. The game itself is on itch.io and is pay-what-you-want.

[Inkbox] doesn’t just limit himself to the SNES’s 6502-esqe assembly — he’s done impressive work in x86 ASM, too.

As FDM printers keep getting faster, we are forced to deal with a range of bottlenecks, all of which conspire to hold us back from another Benchie world record. A major physical limitation is that of flowrate, as the hotend has to be able to melt the filament that enters the nozzle before it departs said nozzle. One attempt to make a high-flow nozzle involves splitting the material path into three winding sections, which theoretically should help said flowrate. Recently [Thomas Sanladerer] took a poke at this and other types of nozzle with SLS-printed nozzles.

These printed parts still needed some finishing on the lathe, including drilling the 0.4 mm nozzle hole. The finished nozzles feature a variety of internal geometries, including the aforementioned triple-path, as well as many with various intrusions that seek to maximize the contact area.

Using a Prusa Core One these nozzles were subsequently tested to see what print quality they produced at high flow rates. A special test rig to test the nozzle pressure was also used to further characterize them, as this indicates at which flowrate the nozzle begins to struggle. Among these the Fuge design did the best, though with the big asterisk that these nozzles were printed in MS1, which is in effect tool steel and thus not great for being nozzles.

A fun part of modifying something like a motorbike is that you sometimes have to come up with creative solutions to basic questions, like how you can still access the fuel tank’s cap after extending it forward. In the case of [KRTframework] this meant that the fuel cap was now underneath the bodywork, requiring a suitable way to access it. Of course, this meant making a hidden access panel with a custom hinge, to not break the bike’s clean lines.

To make the process as easy as possible, a 3D scanner was used to get detailed measurements on what the new bodywork would look like. Using these the new bodywork was created, including what would be the hidden access panel, yet finding a suitable hinge mechanism wasn’t easy. This is where this custom design was created, with detailed assembly covered in the video.

To bridge the gap between the opening and the fuel tank a part was 3D-printed that also contains the simple push-to-open latch mechanism. Of course, in the comment section people sounded off on this, feeling that it would be far too easy to accidentally open the panel.

The hinge seems to be well-received at least, with it having to fit within the available space, while also providing good access to the fuel cap when opened, meaning quite a lot of travel.

Remember those tiny little droids skittering around the pristine corridors of the Death Star in Star Wars? [heychaostheory] has put together something vaguely along the lines of those charming little mobile toasters. It’s an autonomous mouse droid with party mode!

The build is interesting in that it’s based on an off-the-shelf metal robot chassis—which provides mounting points for the gearmotors and wheels that make up the drivetrain. The mouse droid body sits atop this, being a 3D printed part that is afixed with heat set inserts and nylon standoffs. It’s 3D printed and expertly decorated with a fun vibe. Inside the body lives an Arduino Uno, hooked up to an L298 motor driver board and ultrasound sensors used for obstacle avoidance. It’s also got a smattering of LEDs to flash, because blinkenlights matter. The best bit, though, is the party mode button, which fires off music via a DFPlayer Mini module.

The mouse droid may not be as flashy and imposing as the Droideka or as mechanically impressive as BB-8, but that just makes it more accessible and fun to build. You can easily create one at full scale without breaking the bank. If you’re cooking up your own fun droids in the workshop, don’t hesitate to let us know. Video after the break.